Jacket and outerwear sourcing: shells, insulation and what to ask a factory

A jacket has more parts than most garments: an outer shell, a lining, insulation or interlining, a zipper, pockets, a hood or collar, cuffs and trims. Each one can fail independently. That is why outerwear usually needs more detail in the brief, more sample rounds and a factory with the right equipment.

Choose the shell fabric

• Nylon and polyester: lightweight and durable, and the usual choice for windbreakers, puffers and technical shells.
• Cotton canvas, twill and waxed cotton: a heavier, workwear or heritage look, with more weight and a longer break-in.
• Wool and wool blends: for coats, with more attention needed on lining and finish.
• Softshell and fleece-backed fabrics: stretch and warmth without bulk.

Ask for the fabric weight, the finish and a fabric swatch before you approve the style. Specifying the fabric by name and weight avoids a substitution later.

Insulation

• Down: warm for its weight. Ask for the fill power and the down-to-feather ratio, and if you plan to market it as responsibly sourced, ask for the certificate, such as the Responsible Down Standard, and check that it covers the actual supply chain.
• Synthetic fill: keeps insulating when damp, is easier to care for and costs less. Quality varies a great deal between fills, so ask for the specification, not just "polyester fill".
• Quilting pattern: baffles and stitch lines hold insulation in place. A poor pattern leaves cold spots and lets fill migrate.

Water resistance and weather protection

Decide how weatherproof the jacket needs to be. A durable water-repellent (DWR) finish sheds light rain and wears off over time. Fully waterproof jackets also need a membrane or coating and taped seams. If you intend to make a waterproof or breathable claim, ask for test results on the actual fabric. Check that the factory has the seam-taping equipment your style needs, because not every factory has it.

Trims and construction

• Zippers: specify the brand or grade, the size and the type (coil, molded, water-resistant). A zipper failure is the fastest way to get a return.
• Snaps, buttons and drawcords: check they suit the fabric weight and do not stain or rust.
• Seams and stress points: ask for bar-tacks or reinforcement at pockets, zipper ends and hood attachments.
• Lining and pockets: a good lining adds comfort and a better finish.

Fit, grading and sampling

Outerwear has to fit over other layers, so decide what your customer will wear underneath and fit the sample over that. Expect several rounds: a proto sample to check shape, a fit sample, then a pre-production sample made from the real bulk materials. Approve the final one in writing and keep it as the reference for inspection. Our guide to writing a tech pack shows how to document these details.

Questions to ask an outerwear factory

• Which jacket types have you produced for other brands, and can I see samples?
• Do you quilt, tape seams and fill insulation in-house or through partners?
• Who supplies the shell fabric and the zippers?
• Which test reports can you provide for the fabric and insulation?
• Which compliance audit is current for the factory? See WRAP, BSCI and Sedex/SMETA explained.

Next step

Dragon Charm sources jackets and outerwear for US brands from audited partner factories in Asia, managed from New York. See our outerwear manufacturing page, read about full-package production, or request a quote.